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Ajwain Is a Dhaba Spice That Rarely Belongs in a Chai Pan

Carom seed is powerful and sharply aromatic, and its dominant compound behaves so aggressively in boiled milk that a small quantity overwhelms an entire blend.

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Ajwain is a fixture in Indian savoury cooking and appears occasionally in chai recipes. It is one of the few spices where a pinch too far ruins a pot outright.

One compound dominates the seed

Ajwain's aroma is driven overwhelmingly by a single strong compound, which is why it smells sharply of thyme and reads as medicinal to many people.

Spices with a broad range of aromatic compounds blend easily, because each contributes partially. A spice dominated by one compound tends to sit on top of everything else.

That makes ajwain a poor team player in a masala where the intended effect is a combined impression rather than a single note.

Boiling extracts it fast

The seeds are small and their oils are readily available, so a chai pan pulls out most of what they hold within the first minute of a boil.

There is no gradual build to judge by, which removes the ability to taste as you go and stop when it is right.

By the time the aroma is obvious in the kitchen, the quantity in the pan is already committed.

Milk does not soften it

Milk fat rounds off many harsh spices, which is why clove and pepper behave better in chai than in a clear infusion.

Ajwain's dominant compound is not blunted the same way, and the combination of its sharpness with cooked milk is what produces the medicinal impression.

Sugar does not help either, and a heavily sweetened cup with ajwain in it tastes confused rather than balanced.

Where it is used deliberately

Ajwain belongs in dough, in fried preparations and in tempering, where fat and starch carry it and where its sharpness cuts through richness.

In a savoury context that dominance is an asset, since it is being asked to be identifiable rather than to blend.

Its presence in some regional herbal infusions is a separate tradition from masala chai and uses it as the main flavour, not an accent.

If you want to try it anyway

The workable approach is a few whole seeds rather than any measured quantity, dropped into a single cup so that a failure costs nothing.

Adding them off the heat limits extraction and keeps the effect closer to an aroma than a flavour.

Anyone who likes the result should still keep it out of a stored blend, since a jar with ajwain in it will taste of ajwain by the following month.

Questions readers ask

Which should I use in masala chai?

Cassia suits a boiled, milky, heavily spiced cup better and costs a fraction as much. Keep Ceylon for lighter preparations where its complexity is not being trampled by ginger.

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Sunayana Bose
Contributing writer, Indian Chai Masala

Sunayana writes about regional chai and has ridden a lot of trains for research.

Also by Sunayana Bose