Indian Chai MasalaThe pot, the spice, the pour

Chai & Brewing

A Pot Left to Stand Before Straining Keeps Extracting

Turning off the flame does not end the brew, because a hot pan holds extraction temperatures for several minutes and the leaf carries on working while it waits.

A vendor prepares steaming chai on the busy streets of Varanasi, India.
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The flame goes off and the pan is set aside while glasses are found. The chai poured four minutes later is not the chai that was ready when the heat stopped.

A heavy pan cools slowly

Metal and liquid both hold heat, and a filled pan taken off a burner remains near boiling for a surprisingly long stretch before dropping into the merely hot range.

Extraction slows as the temperature falls but does not stop, and the range a pan sits in during those minutes is still well within the working zone.

Thick-based pans hold longer than thin ones, so the same delay costs more in a heavy vessel than in a light one.

What gets extracted during the wait

The compounds still coming out at this stage are weighted towards the slow ones, which means tannin rather than aroma, and colour rather than perfume.

The cup accordingly gets darker and more astringent while it stands, and gains very little of what makes a fresh pour pleasant.

Aroma is meanwhile leaving the pan into the room, which is why an unattended pot smells wonderful and tastes flatter than it should.

The delay is usually invisible in the recipe

Timings are written from flame on to flame off, so two cooks following the same recipe can produce different cups purely through how promptly they strain.

Somebody who strains immediately and somebody who finishes a phone call first are running brews of noticeably different length.

This is a common and unrecognised source of the complaint that a recipe works some days and not others in the same kitchen.

Straining is the actual end of the brew

The useful mental correction is that the brew ends when leaf and liquid separate, not when the heat stops, and the recipe should be timed to that point.

If a delay is unavoidable, cutting the boil short by a comparable amount keeps the total roughly where it should be.

Straining into a second vessel and reheating gently if needed is better still, since it fixes the length precisely and leaves the temperature adjustable.

When standing is worth doing deliberately

A short rest can be used on purpose with a coarse whole-spice blend, which releases slowly and benefits from the extra contact more than the leaf suffers.

In that case the leaf can be strained out first and the spices left in the pan, separating the two clocks that were previously tied together.

Done that way the wait becomes a step rather than a leak, and the difference between a prompt cook and a distracted one disappears.

Questions readers ask

Can I make the concentrate with milk in it and refrigerate that?

You can refrigerate finished chai, but it is a food-safety question rather than a flavour one and it needs to be chilled fast and used within a day. The water-only decoction is both safer and better.

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Ramesh Iyengar
Contributing writer, Indian Chai Masala

Ramesh writes about spices and grinds his own masala every fortnight.

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