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Spices

Nutmeg and Mace Come From One Fruit and Behave Like Two Spices

The seed and the lacy red covering around it taste noticeably different, and only one of them belongs in most pans.

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This works through nutmeg and mace in a spice blend in the order the parts actually depend on each other.

The short version

  • Mace is the aril wrapped around the nutmeg seed.
  • Mace is lighter and more floral; nutmeg is warmer and denser.
  • Whole nutmeg keeps its aroma for years, grated does not.

One fruit, two products

The nutmeg tree produces a fruit whose seed is nutmeg and whose lacy red covering is mace. The covering, properly called an aril, is peeled away and dried separately until it turns amber.

Both carry many of the same aroma compounds, but in noticeably different proportions. Mace is the more expensive of the two, because a tree yields far less of it by weight. They are sold in different aisles often enough that many cooks never realise they are related at all.

How they differ in a pan

Nutmeg is warmer, denser and sweeter, and it sits low in the finish where cinnamon also lives. Mace is lighter, more floral and slightly peppery, and it registers higher and earlier in the sip. In a milky chai nutmeg survives better, while mace can vanish underneath the fat.

Mace suits a lighter, cardamom-forward cup where its floral edge has room to be noticed. Using both at once is rarely worth the trouble, since they compete for the same part of the palate.

Dose and grating

Nutmeg is potent enough that a few strokes on a fine grater is a dose for a two-glass pan. In a ground blend, keep it under three per cent of the total weight or it will flatten everything.

Mace can go slightly higher, around five per cent, because it is less dominant at equal weight. Grate nutmeg directly into the pan at the end rather than into a jar weeks in advance. A whole blade of mace can be dropped in with the water and fished out with the cardamom husks.

Why the dose stays small

Nutmeg contains myristicin, and very large quantities have well-documented unpleasant effects on people. The amounts involved are far above anything a cook would ever use in food, running to whole seeds at a time. A few grates in a pan of chai is not a concern, and this has never been a reason to avoid the spice.

It is, however, a reason not to treat nutmeg as something to add by the spoonful for warmth.

Anyone with a specific health question about it should raise it with a doctor rather than a spice merchant.

Where each earns its place

Nutmeg belongs in cold-weather blends alongside cinnamon and clove, where it thickens the finish. Mace belongs in a lighter cup, and it works particularly well with saffron and cardamom.

Both suit chai made with condensed or evaporated milk, where the sweetness needs a savoury counterweight. Neither belongs in a bright, tea-forward cup made to show off good Assam leaf. They are finishing spices in chai rather than structural ones like ginger and cardamom.

Spices fade at their own pace, and a year-old tin needs more of everything.

Buying and storing

Whole nutmegs keep their aroma for years if stored dry and out of the light, which makes them excellent value. A good nutmeg is heavy for its size and feels oily rather than dusty when scratched with a nail. Ground nutmeg fades within a couple of months and is not worth buying at any price.

The ratio does the work here: mace blades keep well but are fragile, so store them somewhere they will not be crushed to powder. Both are expensive by weight and cheap by use, since a single nutmeg lasts most households a year.

The takeaway

Grate the nutmeg into the glass and keep the mace for the cups that can show it off.

Measure it properly once, then never measure it again.

Questions readers ask

Can I use mace if a recipe calls for nutmeg?

You can, but expect a lighter and more floral result rather than an identical one. Use slightly more mace by weight and taste before committing the rest of the pan.

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Falguni Mehta
Editor, Indian Chai Masala

Falguni edits Indian Chai Masala and has strong views about when the milk goes in.

Also by Falguni Mehta