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Tea Rituals

Chai Appears at Weddings and Funerals for the Same Reason

A drink that takes minutes to make and minutes to drink gives people something to do when nobody knows what to say.

Upscale restaurant setting with a waitress serving guests, creating a luxurious dining experience.
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Treat the sections below as a sequence. With serving chai at gatherings and ceremonies, getting the early decisions right makes the later ones much easier.

Before you start

  • Making and serving fills time that would otherwise be awkward.
  • Holding a glass gives visitors something to do with their hands.
  • The same drink works for celebration and for mourning.

The occupation of hands and time

At any gathering where people do not know each other well, the hardest problem is what everybody does with themselves. A glass in the hand solves that immediately and requires no conversation to justify holding it. The four or five minutes it takes to drink also gives a natural unit to a conversation that might otherwise not end.

Somebody making tea in the corner gives everybody a legitimate destination to walk toward. None of this is specific to tea, but tea is what is available and cheap in the quantities required.

Why the same drink for both extremes

A celebratory drink would be wrong at a funeral and a sombre one would be wrong at a wedding. Chai is neutral enough to sit at either without carrying any signal about the occasion itself. That neutrality is precisely why it appears at both, since the occasion supplies the meaning rather than the drink.

Over the flame, alcohol carries too much signal, and water carries too little to constitute an act of hospitality. A drink that means nothing in itself is the most useful drink to have at an event that means a great deal.

The condolence visit specifically

A house in mourning typically receives visitors continuously for several days, often for very short visits. Chai gives each visit a defined shape: arrive, be given tea, drink it, express condolences, leave.

That structure removes the impossible question of how long a condolence visit should last. The household frequently has somebody dedicated to nothing but making tea for the duration. Being given a job is also a genuine kindness to a family member who does not know what to do with themselves.

Weddings and the long day

A wedding involves long stretches of waiting punctuated by short bursts of activity, and the waiting is the harder part. Continuous tea keeps guests occupied through gaps that would otherwise expose how little is happening. It also keeps people in one place, which matters enormously for anyone trying to run a schedule.

At the stall, the quantities involved shift the preparation from a pan to an urn, which changes the drink noticeably.

Wedding chai is almost always sweeter and more heavily milked, since it is being made for a crowd and held.

Who does the making

At smaller gatherings the making is frequently done by whoever is closest to the family rather than by a host. Taking on the tea is a recognised way of helping without needing to be asked or given instructions. It is also a way for somebody who does not know the family well to contribute without intruding.

The role tends to be filled quickly and without discussion at any gathering of reasonable size. That it is never assigned and always filled says something about how well understood the function is.

Milk fat, water hardness and hob power shift the result more than the recipe admits.

Making it at scale

For twenty or more people, an urn or a very large pot is necessary and the recipe has to change with it. Reduce the spice below the linear multiple, since aroma does not scale in proportion to volume.

By the second boil, sweeten in the pot rather than the glass, since individual sweetening is unmanageable at that scale. Make it in batches rather than one enormous pot, so that late arrivals are not drinking something two hours old. A held pot is a compromise, and knowing that lets you decide when to start the next batch.

The takeaway

It is the same drink at both because the drink is not supposed to mean anything by itself.

Measure it properly once, then never measure it again.

Questions readers ask

Is there a right kind of chai for a solemn occasion?

Practice varies enormously and there is no general rule. What is fairly consistent is that it is made plainer and less elaborately spiced, because the drink is meant to be unremarkable rather than a talking point.

Tea Ritualsceremonyhospitalitygatherings
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Falguni Mehta
Editor, Indian Chai Masala

Falguni edits Indian Chai Masala and has strong views about when the milk goes in.

Also by Falguni Mehta