Indian Chai MasalaThe pot, the spice, the pour

Kitchen & Kit

Buying a Chai Pan in an American Kitchen Store

US cookware stores do not sell the small heavy saucepan chai needs, so the useful skill is recognizing which of the pans they do sell will behave the same way.

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The pan Indian households use for chai is small, heavy and straight-sided, and no American cookware aisle sells it under that description. The equivalent is there, filed under other names.

What the pan actually has to do

A chai pan holds a small volume at a hard boil without scorching the milk on the base. That requires a base thick enough to spread heat and a body small enough that the liquid is deep rather than spread thin.

Depth matters because the boil has to circulate. A shallow puddle in a wide pan boils at the edges and sits still in the middle.

It also has to be pourable with one hand while a strainer is held in the other. That rules out most of what a store sells as a saucepan.

Look at the base before anything else

The single most useful specification is a thick, flat, disc-bottomed base. Cheap thin stainless will scorch milk solids in the first minute and every cup after that carries the taste.

Tri-ply construction and heavy aluminum-core bases both work. What matters is mass in the bottom rather than the brand or the marketing language on the tag.

Flatness matters especially on an electric range, where contact with the element is the whole heat path. A rounded or warped base loses that contact where it counts.

Sizes that work and sizes that do not

A one-quart saucepan is close to the right size for two to four servings. Anything larger leaves the liquid too shallow to circulate properly.

Butter warmers and small milk pans are usually the closest fit in an American store. They are sold for a different job and built to roughly the right specification.

The very small pans sold for melting chocolate are generally too thin. Size alone is not the qualification.

Handles, spouts and the pour

A long handle set at a shallow angle gives control at the moment the pan tips. A short stub handle forces the hand close to a pan that has been at a boil.

A pouring lip is worth looking for and rarely present. Without one, the chai runs down the outside and the strainer has to be held closer than is comfortable.

Riveted handles outlast welded ones under repeated heating. A pan used twice a day is being cycled hard.

The Indian grocery is the shortcut

Indian grocery stores in most American metros stock the correct pan, often in a small housewares section at the back. It will be steel, disc-bottomed and inexpensive.

Restaurant supply stores are the other reliable source, since they sell small heavy pans by function rather than by kitchen aesthetics. Neither will call it a chai pan.

Buying the right one first saves the sequence most households go through, which is three unsuitable pans before the cheap correct one. The pan is not where money needs spending.

Questions readers ask

How precise does a chai scale need to be?

One gram resolution is plenty. The differences that matter in a pan are of the order of a gram or two, and finer resolution adds cost and reading time without changing any decision you make.

Do I have to weigh every single time?

No, and most people stop after a week or two. The point is to calibrate your eye and to have a number written down for when the cup starts drifting and you want to know why.

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Falguni Mehta
Editor, Indian Chai Masala

Falguni edits Indian Chai Masala and has strong views about when the milk goes in.

Also by Falguni Mehta